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Acetone is great but can be a pain if you're trying to weld something with a lot of irregular surfaces or crevices. Hosing the parts with brake cleaner tends to be the easier way so it's how lots of people do it, which is why I made it a point to mention it in the video. Thanks for watching!

If you aren't worried about it holding together for long, it's worth a try haha. That carrier wont be usable anymore though if you wanted to switch to a Detroit or anything that reuses the 14 bolt carrier. Good luck!

Nice! If you get a ford part #, post it up 👍

4 links are superior to both in every way haha

@@WebWheeler so I’m thinking about getting a four link front suspension set up for My jeep Comanche. It is not a triangulated today. Do you think that would be better than radius arms?

@@moejr14 If you aren't running hydraulic steering, you don't want a triangulated 4 link in the front. Conventional/mechanical steering will bump steer badly with a triangulated 4 link because the axle cycles straight up and down while the steering travels in an arc (pivots on the pitman arm, axle side steering point is on the passenger side knuckle with crossover steering and as the axle travels up and down, it also shifts sideways.) Better to have a straight 4 link with a panhard bar that matches the length and angle of your steering so bump steer doesn't happen. All that said, radius arm front will do the job in most mild to moderate offroad applications and are quite a bit simpler. Hope that helps!

@@WebWheeler what about rough country radius arm?

Thanks for watching!! Appreciate it. More to come 👍

Wish I would have remembered to mention it in the video! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Appreciate it. The low ride height has made it awesome on the road, even without sway bars. Might bump up the ride height an inch or two for ground clearance but haven't made a decision yet. Either way, it's a lot easier to go up than lowering it so might as well build as low as possible. More videos coming soon!

Glad it helped!

I use solidworks but fusion 360 is a great free option for sheetmetal design. There are simpler programs if you only need 2D but learning fusion 360 is definitely worthwhile. Thanks for watching!

Does the wheel feel the same when turning both ways? Or does one way feel harder/easier and the other normal? Hard to imagine anything that would fail only on one side- my guess would be the cylinder having a bad seal or fluid level not being high enough if it's pushing a single-ended cylinder

@@WebWheeler I'll verify both answers to the those questions when I get home, that way I'm not spot balling. But I wanna say, when driving at any speeds in a straight line and trying to turn , the front wheels will fade back to straight. Like turning a steering wheel indefinitely when moving at higher speeds to keep the front wheels tracking where you want them.

That's a big "if..." Lol hopefully someday I'll get myself the heavy duty equipment to make my life easier. Thanks for watching!

Yeah I have 5.13's in my Dakota now. You can go as low as 5.38's in the Sterling 10.25/10.5 axles made up until 2010. 2011+ only goes to 4.88 gears. However, the factory locker started in 2011 so you'll have to swap the locker in to a 2010 or older axle like I did to get the lower gears and factory locker. Hope that makes sense!

@@WebWheeler yeah the 5.13+ gears at only in the 10.25" ring gears far as I can tell and require a special master kit, likely for special bearings

You just need to use the 10.25" install kit if you're putting 5.13+ gears in the 1999-2010 10.5 axles. Nothing special- worked for me! 👍

@@WebWheeler great video ,could you send me the gear product number for the 5.13 you used and is that factory locker the only size like for different gear ratio?

What was the problem that made you disassemble it originally? Did it have anything to do with only being able to turn with no load on the steering?

correct and now its leaking under the steering wheel and a repair man told me hydro fl isnt suposta go up the column the column is like 19 in long and bolts onto the valve and I cant get it ofgf? besides the 4 bolts what else is holding it on??@@WebWheeler

If you remove the steering wheel, there's usually a snap ring holding the steering shaft inside the column. It also has a seal there. That could be what's holding it together?

Working fine still- have around 7k miles on it at this point. I'm pulling the cover soon to paint the axle and will check it then and follow up on my Instagram and eventually on here 👍

Thanks for the reply. Sounds good. I’d just noticed on my ring gear that tone ring index tab was resting against the cutout in the carrier. I’m assuming it had rotated a little but, maybe not.

It was probably assembled that way- the drag from the oil is the only thing trying to spin the tone ring so I can't imagine it could overcome the press fit. The other option to give extra security would be to just use a small diameter punch or center punch and stake the tone ring and carrier together after you assemble the carrier, tone ring, and ring gear. That would be enough of a mechanical lock to be sure the tone ring can't rotate or walk away from the ring gear. Good luck!

Yeah I thought about that when putting it all back together. I did use the ring to press it on as you'd shown. I also went ahead with a little retaining compound just for kicks. I did notice that toner ring sure is soft for it being ferrous steel, cast or whatever it's made out of it. I used a .0015 feeler gauge around the press fit surface just to make sure it was fully seated against the new ring gear. I found one tiny high spot that feeler was getting stuck in so I tapped it back down with a brass punch against the ring gear which actually marred the surface. I'm going with 4.88 Yukon's. The goal is to hit 4.30 final ratio after installing some 36x12.5x17's. Was running 4.30's which were a bit too tall for my liking with 35's. Truck doesn't get much highway use and when it does we're towing our RV 65 or slower. 6.0's like revs anyways. The original LSD had 345k on it so I was concerned about re-clutching it. Those things get toasted when towing after a while anyways. That's when I found your video. Thanks again sir and keep up the good work! @@WebWheeler

So I'm in the middle of this exact install. Got a great pattern drive and coast. I got the football on drive side and I would say the coast side looks a little like a feather shape. I would say nearly identical to yours. -Patterns are centered. -Pinion bearing preload is 20-22 inch lbs. Avg B/L is .008. . -Pinion depth is .028 .002 B/L variation runout on teeth which I attribute to the phosphate coating on the new gears. I've made sure to mark the location of the dial indicator base on the housing and take the B/L measurement closest to the same location / angle possible each time on the teeth. New Ford E-lock Carrier which has .001 runout. New Yukon 4.88s. All new Timken bearings and races. No noise on drive whatsoever, but I've got tiny, faint noise on deceleration. I'm thinking I should increase the preload to the end of spec at 35 in/lbs as I suspect it's unloading a little causing the pattern to change on the coast side. This is a daily, not a wheeler so trying to make her quiet as possible. I'd really love your input on this.

Definitely on the way- trying to wrap up build videos first but need to get my butt in gear with editing haha

It's much easier to use an oxy acetylene or plasma cutter to cut the brackets off first, then grind down what's left because the welds on the axle tubes are hard to get to in some spots. Other option would be cutoff wheels to take off as much of the bracket as you can then finish with a sanding disc. Good luck!

Won't work in the front- it's a Dana 60 and this locker only fits the sterling. Lots of aftermarket lockers available for the dana 60 front though 👍

Appreciate it! Thanks for watching

The truck is driving- the videos are just way behind haha. Another video will be out soon though. Thanks for watching!

I kept it full width so I wouldn't have any issue with replacing shafts plus I prefer the stability. With 9" wide, 5.5" backspace wheels, I have about 4" of tire stick out past the fender on each side. Hope that helps!

They're starting to pop up in junkyards but your best bet right now is still dismantlers selling whole axles or diffs from used trucks. I will try to find the Ford part number- some places sell the locking diff brand new also. Good luck!

Elocker wasn't available until 2011 so the plug you have is most likely the abs sensor plug

Thanks man! Let me know if you need some measurements or stuff love that when you get started. Sounds like it'll be a sweet project!

Thanks for the support! 🍻

Not to mention the failure modes he's talking about are incredibly rare. To drive in such a way that a properly engineered suspension arm is completely detaching from the axle or chassis would mean you've already broken a hell of a lot of other things

Thanks for the support! Working on another one now 👍

If you think this is wasted effort my channel is definitely not for you haha. Thanks for watching either way

Problem 1 was that it didn't fit 40's. I'll figure out the rest later

I agree 👍

You should see what I did to the frame on the driver's side 😬

Has 6" of up travel before tire gets to the clearance shown at the end, not to mention I don't leave it a raw cut lol. Have to build it at full bump to know what worst-case-scenario clearances you're working with though

@@WebWheeler Damn dude did you pull the springs to make the cuts? That's a pretty genius way of doing it. Mad props.

Yeah I converted the front suspension to coilovers and then to check these clearances I remove the springs and depressurize the shocks. That way the front suspension can be cycled through it's entire range of motion with a floor jack and the frame and body stays in place in it's stands. I go into a lot more detail in the full videos haha these shorts explain nothing of the process. Either way thanks for watching 👍

@@WebWheeler Is it finished ?

Mostly- it's running and driving. I just need to build new bumpers for it still. I'm way behind on editing videos but my Instagram is @Webwheeler also- that shows the truck in it's current state

Build it low, go up from there. Way easier to lift if I decide it's too low than lower if it's too high 👍